Q: Does dominating roosters fix aggressive behavior? A: This subject has come up so many times, so we wanted to take a moment to go into detail and explain why we do not back this method. Before starting, we just want to assure you that we understand that people come from different backgrounds, and have been given differing advice over the years, and we are not here to judge anyone. We are thrilled to have every single one of you with us! So this is just a reminder that we are all here because we want to do right by our boys. So without further ado, these are the primary reasons dominating is not recommended. 1) It can backfire in a big way! This advice is sometimes supported by keepers who have found that it lessened attacks. This might be true in certain cases, but it is entirely dependent on the individual bird. A more dominant roo can see it as an excuse to double down and become more aggressive and threatened. This is a very common recommendation in many groups, and a great many keepers try it but still wind up throwing in the towel, often reporting to others later that "nothing worked". Put simply, if it were that effective, many of our members would not have felt a need to seek out this group and far fewer keepers would be struggling. 2) It establishes a competitive relationship. There is a very pervasive myth out there that either you are dominant over your roo, or he is dominant over you, no middle ground. While it makes sense that many would assume this to be true, it is absolutely not the case. Recent studies suggest chickens are likely as smart as a 7 year old human, which is to say they are very capable of understanding that we exist outside of the pecking order. They don't automatically view us as another rooster (or hen), but this method is designed to convince them we are one. Of course, it is natural for a rooster to want to compete with and challenge another rooster, so the last thing we want to do is deliberately put ourselves in that category. Many roosters first attack out of fear or anxiety and are misunderstood to be challenging (it looks very similar). Dominating when this happens can easily convince them that they need to compete with us, even if they had no desire to previously. 3) Even if it does work, it will be temporary. If we are thinking of adopting the role of rival, we need to look closely at the dymanic between competing roos. After all, this is the outcome we should expect if we do manage to convince them and win that contest. As a guardian of a bachelor flock, I see a disproportionate amount of rooster social dymanics on a daily basis. Head roo position is quickly determined when the pecking order changes up, but that order does not last forever, or even close to it. The loser will certainly give the winner his space for a time, but as soon as he bolsters some courage he will give it another shot. There simply is no permanent win between roosters, and the throne is regularly contested. Wanting to lead is just too ingrained in them. Rather than solving the problem, this method presses the snooze button and the issue will come up again as soon as his courage builds back up. You might win the battle, but the war is still being fought. 4) It burns the bridge to friendship. Rival roosters are not buddies. In a large enough mixed flock, it is natural for each rooster to claim their hens and establish a harem away from the other. The weaker roo will feel pressured to stay away from the stronger one, and will become apprehensive about asserting himself in general. Subordinate roos often won't even crow, as they understand that the head roo is likely to view that as an overstepping of position. What we want is secure boys who understand that we are friends and are empowered to act in their role. They will not bond with us and see us as a trusted companion unless we leave competition off the table. 5) We aren't qualified! Seriously though, a big issue with trying to be "head roo" that I don't often see discussed is that we are sending the message to him (and the flock) that we are the protector, provider and caregiver. It is true that we fill in on all these roles, but it is inappropriate to attempt to take over that social position when we can't always be present like he can. If we succeed, the flock is left with a "head roo" who only shows up part time and doesn't have nearly the understanding of their needs that a rooster has naturally. He is the expert, he was literally born to do the job. He has specialized vision to quickly spot any danger lurking, he speaks the flock's language, he watches over them at all times, even overnight. We simply can't compete. 6) It runs the risk of masking other issues. Often any unpleasant rooster behavior is lumped into the same category, him "not knowing his place." Dominating is thought to put them in line, but the issue often has nothing to do with being out of line in the first place. It is so important to get to the root of the problem and address the true cause of that undesirable behavior. That really is the only lasting solution. A rooster who is frightened will not be reassured by being pinned. One who is sick or in pain will not be soothed. One who feels that his girls are being taken from him will not be comforted by confirmation that they are and, worse yet, he has lost the fight. This group was created specifically to help anyone in it get to the bottom of what is driving the problems they are encountering, so that the needs and concerns of both keeper and rooster can be met. We don't want to simply reduce inconvenience while leaving the root cause unaddressed. Not only would that fail to help our boys when they need it most, it would leave the keeper open to future issues as well. Thank you to anyone who took the time to read through this. I hope it was able to provide justification for avoiding this approach. Remember, we are here for you. If you are ever feeling like you need one on one support with anything you are dealing with, we are always here. Q: Are there universal tips to help make my rooster friendly? A: Whether you're a new keeper hoping to keep your roo nice, or are struggling with a rooster who's already attacking, there are a number of tried and true tips to establish an amazing relationship with your boy. This is a list of Do's and Dont's when working with roos.     Do: -Dress for the occasion - Gloves, jeans, and sturdy footwear will help prevent the vast majority of injuries. -Establish a routine - Predictability helps your rooster feel secure. Try to be consistent in your schedule, attire, and process for care, chores, and interaction. -Spend quality time - Making regular time for bonding will build familiarity and encourage friendship. -Ease into change - The unfamiliar is scary. Help them handle things gracefully by gradually introducing new objects, people, or environmental changes. -Be mindful - Before interacting, take a moment to make sure you’re projecting calm and friendship. Roosters mirror our emotional state; what we put out is what they reflect back. -Minimize stress - Roosters who are stressed express it through attacks. Whenever possible, navigate care in a way that avoids unnecessary worry or panic. -Learn their language - Many rough behaviors aren’t aggressive. Taking time to decipher what they’re trying to say will help avoid frustration and misunderstandings. -Respect their culture - Chickens have different “rituals”, values, and communication methods than humans. Remember, different doesn’t mean bad or wrong. -Look from their perspective - Take a step back and try to see situations through the eyes of a prey animal. Often things that wouldn’t bother us strike them very differently. -Set standards for caregivers - A bad interaction with any human can create distrust of all humans, including you! Don’t involve others in care/training unless you’re sure they’re willing and able to respond to challenges correctly. -Be an example - Engaging in conflict will encourage more conflict. If we want friendship, we must demonstrate friendship. Our actions teach them how to treat us. -Maintain spurs - Excessively long or sharp spurs pose a danger to us, the hens, and our roos. Don’t remove, but do keep spurs dulled and trimmed to a healthy length. -Pay attention to health cues - Roosters will often attack when injured or feeling unwell. Close observation and regular health checks will increase your chances of early treatment, and help prevent attacks driven by discomfort.  Don’t: -Take things personally - Rooster attacks are driven by fear, confusion, or frustration - never malice. Show you’re a friend by identifying (and helping them solve) the problem they’re having. -Wear flashy clothes - Bright colors, busy patterns, and even baggy fabric can spook roosters and lead to attacks. Stick to plain items of a neutral color that don’t flop around. -Fight fire with fire - Aggressive responses reinforce aggression. Spraying, kicking back, throwing objects, etc. will be viewed as an attack. Avoid methods that are designed to intimidate or cause discomfort. Instead, encourage peace by being “the calm in the storm”. -Use dominance tactics - Methods like pinning or chasing will encourage competition and conflict. They might work for a time, but they put a target on our back and open us up to renewed attacks down the road. All roosters want to lead. As soon as they build up confidence they will attempt to take over. Head roos are frequently challenged, it’s best to remain outside the pecking order. -Trap or capture to stop attacks - Capture and restraint can be necessary in an emergency, but in response to attacks it only reinforces to them that we are a threat. As prey animals, things like trapping with a laundry basket or netting will fuel their anxiety and make them more defensive. -Underestimate their ability to learn - Chickens are even more intelligent than cats or dogs! Far from being bird-brains, they are incredibly trainable and eager to learn. -Expect them to naturally understand - Our backyard roos are faced with many unnatural items and situations. They often need some help to understand they are safe. -Assign motive - Ask questions instead. Many behaviors mean something very different than it seems at first glance. Avoid assuming the worst, and always consider all possible explanations. -Engage in competition - This only confirms to them that we’re a rival. The best way to prevent conflict and contests long term is to show him you’re on his team. -Trust everything you’re told - There’s typically very little consideration shown to roosters (this group is a rare exception). When evaluating advice, ask yourself if you’d use that method on your cat, parrot, or even toddler. If the answer is no, it’s probably smart to reject it. -Use unnatural preventatives - Things like crow collars and pinless peepers are not only a safety hazard for the bird, but also add to their stress by hindering healthy natural behaviors. When natural behaviors are being expressed in an unhealthy way, it’s a sign of a deeper problem to remedy. Forcing a stop is a band-aid "solution". -Believe the tough guy act - Deep down, roosters are incredibly sensitive and feel deeply vulnerable (this is why they’re so fast to defend). Rest assured, they need reassurance and support far more than punishment. -Trust their responses - As prey animals, roosters are programmed to hide weakness. They don’t react to pain or distress the way we would. Even if they’re acting fine, if what’s happening seems like it would be painful, assume it is. -Allow access to young children - The sweetest, calmest rooster can still get spooked. Small children can’t keep faces out of kicking range. An adult should always oversee interactions and ensure that safeguards are in place. -Expect the impossible - Even humans have bad days or lash out over misunderstandings now and again. Just like us, good birds will occasionally have a bad response, but we don’t have to let it burn bridges. -Give up on them - Roosters can be challenging, but with love, patience, and dedication they have the potential to be incredible companions. There will be rocky patches, but remember, losing a battle doesn’t mean you’ve lost the war. *** This list alone will not correct all behavior issues. It's a road map for how to avoid creating/worsening problems, and building a solid foundation to work from. For some boys, no more than this might be required, but for others it will take a strategy tailored to their unique history, environment, and anxieties. If what's listed here isn't doing the trick, we urge you to create a post with more information on your individual roo and the behaviors you're seeing. We'll be happy to provide more in-depth guidance in order to help resolve any issues you're facing.   Q: My rooster just turned aggressive out of nowhere! What do I do? A: If you're seeing aggression, or other behavior issues, we recommend you start here. This is a video we put together breaking down the psychology and methodology that we use to navigate behavior challenges with our roo flock. Our sweet boys are a great example of how well the gentle approach works. We hope the information provided can help you through any rough patches with your boys, but if you still find yourself struggling, don't hesitate to reach out for more tailored help! Q: My rooster did the little "wing dance/shuffle" at me. Is he challenging me or does he see me as a hen? A: Many are familiar with the rooster "wing dance", and just about everyone knows they do this to flirt with hens or challenge rival roosters, but did you know that isn't the only thing this smooth move is used for? It's something they do just about any time they are bursting at the seams with big energy. It can be showing off, but it can also be a sign of tremendous joy, impatience, or even frustration. A lot of keepers see this and worry they are being challenged, but there are so many other possible explanations. This video is a series of shuffles our boys broke out just this morning, and what they were expressing with each one. All of these happened within a 30 minute time span. We see shuffle dances on a daily basis, but our boys have never had any desire to compete with us or make us submit. If your roo ever does this, especially if hormones have him extra wound up or he has always been sweet, please don't panic. It doesn't necessarily mean he is trying to "put you in your place", and he might even just be over the moon to see you. Q: Can kids & roosters coexist? A: Roosters can be fantastic to have around. They’re beautiful, attentive, selfless, and fiercely loyal to those they love. It’s hard not to get attached. Young roosters are some of the most affectionate animals you could hope to meet, and many parents watch with pride and joy as their children develop a bond with their new feathered family members. Everything seems to be on a wonderful track…until it’s not. One day, that sweet boy suddenly charges and attacks their son or daughter. What was once a beautiful bond seems to have collapsed into fear and malice. Many understandably feel forced to choose between their rooster remaining with them, and the safety of their child, but it’s entirely possible to navigate this situation successfully while ensuring that nobody is in danger of injury. It does, however, take some planning and some insight into how roosters see and engage with their world. Why the kids? You might have heard it suggested that roosters single out children because they’re an easy target, but this honestly isn’t the case. There’s no power play (or desire to bully) going on here, as much as it can look and feel that way. What it really comes down to is a mismatch, both in behavior and communication. Roosters aren’t an inherently aggressive animal, but they arehyper-aware and very fast to react to perceived threats. When they do attack, or react badly, it’s a fear driven response to something they believe could bring harm to the flock. No animal naturally seeks out conflict. If they’re engaging this way, it’s a sure sign that at least in their eyes, they are perceiving a danger worse than the injury they may sustain in combat. In many cases though, the kids did nothing unkind to the bird; he seems to just go after them for no reason. To understand this, we have to look at how our flock guardians evaluate the people and situations they encounter. There are really only two main categories roosters place things into - “threat” and “non-threat”. Everything in their lives will wind up classified this way. Children are, unfortunately, often placed in the threat category, but this is not done out of spite. Rather, it’s because kids happen to exhibit certain behaviors that are much more naturally associated with danger than safety. Fast movements, high energy, and intense interest in the flock and their activities can all be easily misunderstood as predatory. Once they feel danger has been detected, they will quickly go into fight or flight mode. Adults are in danger of sudden movements triggering this too, but our large and imposing stature at least makes them more reluctant to engage head on. When it comes to young children who are far smaller, and much less intimidating, the fight response is far more likely to win out. The fact that they are “weaker” is involved to some extent, but it’s not the reason they feel a need to attack, just a factor that makes them feel safer following through with that impulse. In addition to this, young enough children are often unsteady on their feet and exhibit somewhat poor coordination. Within the flock, this kind of movement is often a sign of a bird who’s sick or injured, and this is often met with attacks and attempts to exile them from the group. In this situation as well, there’s no malice, just a survival instinct that drives them to eliminate weakened individuals, lest they attract the attention of predators in search of an easy meal. But he was so nice before! What happened? In many cases, nothing. At least nothing on the human’s side. For the roosters who have just entered puberty, their entire perspective has changed dramatically. It’s very common for “teen” roos to suddenly react very differently to things they were never upset by before. They haven’t lost their minds, at least no more than human teens do. Even though they experienced and evaluated things for safety as chicks, their concerns and priorities were very different then. As they mature, they “wake up” to adult worries and responsibilities, and this prompts them to re-evaluate everything from that new perspective. Roosters with older flock members to guide them often handle this phase far more gracefully, but in same age flocks, they wind up having to rely on best guesses and can only learn through trial and error. Will it get better? With the right approach, absolutely, but that doesn’t mean safety measures won’t be necessary. Mature roosters are never going to be on the same level they were as placid and harmless cockerels. They can remain just as sweet, bonded, and eager to befriend their humans, but with maturity comes a strength and seriousness that really can’t be taken lightly. Any rooster, regardless of whether they have a history of attacks or not, is capable of causing injury, even if they have no desire to harm us. As prey animals, roosters depend on snap judgements and fast reactions to survive. There is always the potential for misunderstandings, and it’s important to be prepared to mitigate moments of confusion or panic. A good parallel that I like to point to is the safety measures used around horses. Whether or not a horse is tame, they can easily get spooked and in that panicked frame of mind they pose a very real danger to any humans nearby. A toddler would not be safe playing unsupervised in a horse stall, not because the horse has any ill-will, but simply because that risk is never zero and a young child isn’t capable of safely handling that kind of situation. Of course, this doesn’t mean children can’t befriend horses (or roosters), only that a capable adult should be present for any interaction, in order to run interference if necessary. So what’s the solution? First and foremost, ensuring no unsupervised interactions can occur. This is really the safest approach with any rooster, regardless of temperament. The easiest way to do this is typically to designate separate times for the yard to be used by children and the flock, allowing the little ones their play time and only letting the flock out after the kids go back in. For those without a run, or a schedule that won’t accommodate this, there are usually still good options, but it might be worth posting and asking for ideas that accommodate the limitations you’re dealing with. It’s possible to oversee play time and remain close at hand to prevent any bad interactions, but this might not be a safe option if you have multiple children, or multiple roosters to track and respond to. For roosters who are young, time to mature will reduce a great deal of the reactivity. Most settle down quite a lot around one year of age. It will never be zero, and it will always be important to have some safeguards in place, but they will be far less of a loose cannon the more they mature. For those families who have raised their birds together, rest assured the kids can still maintain a relationship with the flock. It isn’t necessary to cut them off from each other, only to ensure that interactions are guided by a capable adult. For very young children, it’s perfectly safe for them to interact with or pet the rooster while he’s being held by an adult. If your child has made friends with the hens, it will be best to provide bonding time by bringing them to an area away from the roo and the rest of the flock to visit. They could get a special visit with a different girl each day, or the rooster may be able to be given some one-on-one time of his own with another guardian, while the hens get some time with the kid(s). Regardless of the strategy used, it’s helpful to encourage that children practice gentle interaction, slow movements, and recognizing the flock’s cues. A toddler can start what makes the flock scared, an older child could start learning how to interpret their body language. A great deal can be done to forge incredible relationships without having free access to one another, and as soon as children are old enough (and practiced enough) in interpreting the flock’s behavior, there’s a very good chance they can be taught the same safety measures we use as adults. Ultimately, the details will be a bit different from family to family, these are just some general ideas to think over and modify as needed. Of course, if you’re feeling at a loss and need more detailed suggestions or guidance, we’re always here to help. Please don’t hesitate to create a dedicated post, or reach out to a member of leadership directly if you need help finding a good path forward. Q: Is layer feed safe for a rooster? A: This is an excellent question to ask! If you've gone so far as to ask other keepers, you've probably gotten very conflicting answers - many reassuring that there's nothing to worry about, and many others warning that eating layer feed will certainly harm, or even kill your roo. So what's the scoop? Is the danger imagined, and if not, why do so many report having no issues? Is layer feed even the best choice for feeding hens? Let's break it down and get to the bottom of nutritional best practice for a healthy happy flock.   If you're unfamiliar with the subject, the concern comes down to the added calcium present in layer feed. Hens need that boost to support egg laying, but roosters have no good way to rid their body of the surplus. The excess they consume builds up and is linked to the development of various health issues, including gout and kidney disease. It may seem odd at first glance that different genders would have such different dietary needs, but this is actually very common. Even for humans, it's dangerous for men to take women's multi-vitamins, as the high dose of iron they contain is harmful. Different dietary needs for different genders are far more common than one might expect. The scientific literature broadly supports that there's a connection between high calcium intake and illness in roosters. Of course, that still leaves the question of how so many keepers report no problems in their roosters who consume layer feed. So what gives? To understand how that can be the case, it's important to consider the way these illnesses develop. This isn't like ingesting a poison, the harm isn't immediate. Rather, the resulting strain and inefficient processing as the body tries to eliminate that excess calcium results in a slow build up in joints and damage to organs. Roosters are in a rather unique situation, in that so many of them don't get a chance to live out their entire natural life-span. Many die before there has been sufficient time to see outward signs of a problem, and few are taken for necropsy to identify any internal illness. This is a situation in which the damage is hidden, often for quite a long time, and only becomes outwardly visible once it's very advanced. These boys can have quite a lot of damage under the surface, and their keepers can still see no evidence of it. This isn't a sign that it isn't happening, only that it hasn't reached critical mass. It's also incredibly common for birds to die "mysteriously". A rooster who dies of kidney disease as a result of incorrect diet can easily be lumped into that category, having lived their whole lives with no obvious health issues, despite them being very much present.  But that still leaves a problem, the hens need the layer feed, right? Actually, there's a case to be made that it isn't the best choice for them either! Even for hens, specific calcium requirements vary depending on age, breed, season, and individual physiology. Breeds that lay daily need more calcium replacement than those that lay only a few times a week. During molt, or winter breaks, extra calcium isn't needed (or healthy). We all know that birds who have not yet started laying shouldn't be given layer feed, but this also goes for birds who have concluded laying or for whom laying is paused. So it isn't even a simple question of gender needs differing. No two birds in our flocks have exactly the same calcium requirements, and those needs shift tremendously throughout the year as laying frequency changes. We could try to switch between feeds every time they molt and as seasons change, separate older retired girls from our layers for feeding purposes...or we can simply offer an all-flock feed that will be safe for both genders - all breeds and ages, whether in lay or not. Providing a supplement like oyster shells on the side allows every individual to consume exactly the amount of calcium their body needs, not just a ballpark based on an "average" laying hen. This not only protects our roosters, it also supports our girls in the most individualized way possible. Whether you keep a bachelor flock, a mixed flock, or even just hens, a very simple option exisits to provide each and every flock member with safe and optimal nutrition. Q: Are some roosters born aggressive? A: There's a lot of discussion on genetic aggression in roosters - those birds who launch into an attack for seemingly no reason. There also seems to be a strong belief in many circles that there's no fix for it. I want to share our experience with our "aggressive" boy who we were able to bring around, in case it can help anyone who might be dealing with the same thing. I firmly believe that what we were really dealing with wasn't aggression, but rather an anxiety disorder. That may sound absurd to some, but let me give a bit of supporting detail to back it up (how we figured this out and what we did about it follows, for anyone interested). Researchers have found a parallel between anxiety and depression in humans and chickens. They are currently being used in studies to attempt to identify the genetic pathways for these disorders because they provide such a useful model. For humans, symptoms of anxiety include: Feelings of impending doom Constant worry Feeling edgy or "restless" Frustration and irritability Overgeneralizing (making assumptions based on one situation) Believing the worst will happen We all know that a rooster who feels threatened will attack, it's their go-to response. What baffles many keepers is when they attack non-threatening things, like a keeper who has always been kind to them. This is what often gets labeled as human aggression, because there seems to be no justification for it other than nastiness. Anxiety would explain those over-reactions and irrational responses. There would also be a spectrum, just as with humans. For some boys there would be virtually no signs (maybe just more frequent alarm calls) but for others, it would be severe enough to result in regular unprovoked attacks. For a prey animal, anxiety symptoms would leave them with a hair trigger, always expecting a problem, and primed to attack almost at all times. It wouldn't be rational, because that sense of imminent danger is in their heads, not their environment. They would be looking for anything to connect that bad feeling to, and incredibly prone to lashing out at the wrong things as a result. My case studies: Our boy is part of a clutch of six biological siblings, four roosters and three hens. Of those six, four are the most laid back and tolerant birds you have ever met, but Maelstrom and his sister Petra are...different. While the others take things in stride, they seem to treat almost everything as huge (and often upsetting) deal. All birds were raised the same way, had the same kind and level of interaction growing up, and have gotten at least an hour of close interactive time with us daily since they hatched. None have been punished, dominated, or intimidated in any way. In other words, these behavior differences aren't the result of anything environmental, those two were born with these tendencies. Maelstrom was distant as a chick, he always preferred standing by, watching intently, over cuddling in our lap like the others. Petra also avoided cuddles, we only managed to get close to her when we learned she was willing to jump onto an arm. Both were much more wary and finicky than the others. By about a year old they had come around and decided snuggling and being close was nice, but still we were dealing with the hyper-reactive behavior. Maelstrom would kick at most shoes. Certain pants set him off, and even cuffs of sleeves moving anywhere near him sent him into a panic. Petra developed a tendency to charge across the run and peck hands HARD the moment we sat down to visit her. If she was close and a hand was in reach, she was probably biting it. What we did: At some point there, we got a wild hair that Petra might be desperately asking to be picked up and held. She's bottom of the pecking order and easily run off or pushed away by the other girls. Typically, she would get picked up and held when she pecked to try to calm her down. So I stopped picking her up when she pecked, and instead started only picking her up when she scratched at my leg with her foot, or dragged her beak on my jeans. When she pecked, I would tell her "ask nice" and make a scratching motion on my leg with my finger. When she imitated it, she got picked up and snuggled. She caught on quickly and once she learned it worked she stopped the charging and pecking and switched to that entirely. This proved that it wasn't nastiness, but rather a desperate way of asking for something. This made me wonder if Maelstrom's "attacks" might be a desperation thing also, just feeling uneasy and needing reassurance but not knowing how to communicate it. The kicking had, predictably, caused me to keep him more at a distance. We had sort of gotten into a vicious cycle. The more he kicked, the more I tried to give him his space to avoid upsetting him. I started to wonder, what if what's upsetting him IS being kept at a distance? I decided to try making a point to bring him close first thing each day when we went out. Sure enough, each day that he got his cuddle time right away, he was much more at ease about shoes, pants, etc. the rest of our time out there. After a few months of doing this, he has all but stopped with any kicking. Things still spook him on rare occasion, but I can't remember the last time he kicked me. These days, there are no kicks or bites even when I wear clothing that used to set him off without fail. Many treatments for anxiety in humans are not readily available to chickens. It's hard for us to force them to get good sleep, eat well, or remain active. We can set things up correctly, but how much they take advantage of it is up to them. One therapy stands out though, and that's developing a practice of breathing or meditation. This is something we actually can sort of force by making them take the time to unwind and settle, to get away from thoughts running wild and over-stimulation. I believe this is exactly what allowed us to get on a better track with our birds. Just holding them, giving them a break, and soothing them was therapeutic. It didn't cure them or change their brain chemistry, but it provided just enough support and relief to help them feel more able to cope. It took them from constant red alert, to feeling that things were manageable and that outcomes could be good. We essentially trained them to understand that even if they felt bad things were looming, someone was there to "rescue" them and make things right.

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